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Thanks, I used to get that a lot.

Thank you, I appreciate you watching.

Thanks for watching, I appreciate it.

That's ambitious, can you be specific on the knife and pen? I'll give it a go.

@@FatManLeather GEC #15 Urban Jack Overall Length:6.25" Blade Length:2.87" Cutting Edge:2.50" Blade Width:0.55" Blade Thickness:0.08" Handle Length:3.50" Handle Width:0.75" Handle Thickness:0.50"

@@FatManLeather Fisher Space Pen Bullet Length: Open 5.35"; Closed 3.77" Diameter: .38"

@@FlintandSteelSurvival I'll give it a go, I'll have to make some kind of pen and knife mold. It'll take a bit to get to it but I'll get working on the molds.

@@FatManLeather awesome! You build it I'll buy it!

Thank you, and thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching, I appreciate it.

Thanks for watching anyway.

I haven't seen a manual splitter yet that worked great right outta the box. A little tuning and this one has been great since.

I hope you were able to get something from it that may be useful someday.

I agree, I've only had it happen once since I started reloading. I don't use this priming tool anymore, I went back to priming on the press again.

@@FatManLeather oh that’s the one thing my Pawpaw told me when I was using the primer tour was not to look at it

@@DariusN-cj9je Pawpaw gave good advice.

I'd look at mine if I hadn't sold it, I can't remember how it went together. There may be a burr that you need to gently file off to get it apart.

@@FatManLeather it was quite late when i was looking at it last night, i will try and take a peak at it again today.

Gotcha, looks like that'll be the winner

@@FatManLeather I'm working on a knife sheath for dangler style with leg strap, but also want to incorporate a detachable loop system for scout carry, I was thinking eyelet rivets then using Chicago screws to attach loops when desired, have you used it know of eyelets that will go through the equivalent of two layer of 11oz or 1/4" thick ? Maybe a naked hole cjeaned up nice and sealed ? Options ? concerns ? Thank ya

@@mckwilly I haven't come across eyelets that would work that thick. Chicago screws through the leather should be fine, that's how I usually do that type of thing, haven't had a problem with one yet. Can't wait to see it.

Got it, thanks for watching

Thank you.

Got it, thanks for watching.

Just brown on this one, it's what the customer ordered. I don't do much multi color stuff, when I do it's on a floral carved piece. I don't do much antiquing unless I think it'll be the right look.

Weaver Leather supply, synthetic saddle fleece.

@@FatManLeather thank you for the response. That's an awesome rifle scabbard. You sir are a craftsman. Thank you for the informative videos.

I do know that, it tends to cause issues when I dye my project, the air assist seems to be working pretty well though.

Just what the directions say, I haven't been able to slow it down to where I'd like it either.

@@FatManLeather I lost my directions yeas ago. So now I'm stuck using it at 500 & thats way to fast sometime

@@CocoaMan I'm in the same boat.

@@FatManLeather but there is no one who wants to help even the seller on Amazon. I’ve been searching for awhile now with no luck

Best upgrade I could have done, gave me a little more hp it still starts in a couple pulls.

Glad it was useful.

I'm not even sure anymore, I like Weaver rings most of the time, they have a nice set of 3/8 dovetail rings for these receivers.

They are nice grips, just a little big for my short fingers.

Something like that.

Hopefully it won't be too bad to work with.

All of this came from a collector and is reproduction. I will not destroy anything that is an original piece. The holster with the frayed binding at the toe is the only original and will be repaired. Don't jump to conclusions, watch some of my other restoration videos of the WW1and WW2 holsters.

I do my best, thanks

You're most welcome

I'm not sure which parts you're referring to, but I have a playlist of holster repair videos.

@@FatManLeather Thank you ,Sir.I have a Luger from WW2 my girlfriends uncle brought home from the war she just brought the other day....Just getting around to it after 51 years lol of knowing her.

@@FatManLeather ok and thank you very much

@@danheino7006 If you need anything, feel free to email me at fatmanleather@gmail.com

Thanks Dom, appreciate ya watching, that Cobra machine just keeps asking for more too.

Thanks, I'll try to make it interesting.

I think the change of pace will be fun.

I think replicating the medical bag will be fun.

@@FatManLeather I drew up some ideas for milsurp style ammo pouches etc. Using old issue canvas/denim duffle bags haven't got around to making any just yet but neat to see you working with these

@@mckwilly I've worked with fabrics since I was a kid so this should be fun.

Thanks for watching

Feel free to ask questions when they come up.

@@FatManLeather Thanks a lot .

For this holster it was a 4 ply (4 cord) waxed Irish linin, there a a few sellers on Etsy.

Acetone is my last resort, I usually deglaze just to remove the topcoat.

@@FatManLeather I dont know if you can "reglaze" after or not to re-protect its finish but leather is interesting to mess around with craft wise 🙂

@@steve64464 You can apply a topcoat without an issue, however, any charring left behind by the laser process will be spread around unless you are using an airbrush to apply it.

@@FatManLeather topcoat of what product? some kinda transparent spray?

@@steve64464 saddlelac is a spray product but not very flexible. Acrylic Resolene can be wiped on or sprayed on with an airbrush and can be thinned with water. Tankote is what I use most, wipe on and let it dry. Resolene and Tankote have some flexibility.

Thank you, and thanks for watching.

I've used a lot of different things over the years.

I can make that happen, even though I stitch weird.

Thanks buddy, I appreciate it.

I couldn't say, I'd try isopropyl alcohol first since it's fairly mild, someplace unseen. If that doesn't work, I'd try nail polish remover (mild acetone), then acetone as a last resort.

Yes I do, my shop has been busy and I don't have the time.

There will be another one this weekend, Thanks for watching.

I remember ya, that was a couple minutes ago. I do still make belts, double layer and heavy duty. Shoot me an email if ya want one, fatmanleather@gmail.com

Glad it was useful for you, thanks for watching.

I use Bick 4 when the leather is pretty dry, it adds moisture faster. Apply it according to the directions and re-apply in a few days usually does the trick.

My pleasure, thanks for watching.

Just needed to get caught up, I'm going to try and stay that way but repairs are picking up again.